Notes on South America

Notes: 01

Ecuador:

Things we know now that we didn't before we arrived:

• Ceviche is a dish of raw fish pickled(?) in lime or lemon juice and is delicious.
• The museum at the Equator isn't actually on the Equator. That's 250m away at the Inti-Nan museum outside the official complex, and well worth visiting. (More so than the official museum).
• There are people who actually eat guinea pigs.
• You can stay on the Galapagos. Some people live there.

Things we'd do differently if we did it again:

• Not spend so long in Quito and make more time for Banos and Cuenca.
• Visit the mainland coast. Particularly Esmeralda province.

Ratings:

• Galapagos - FAIRLY RATED. It's touted as a once in a lifetime experience and it is. Start saving for it now. Would do it again.
• Quito - FAIRLY RATED. It's a UNESCO World Heritage site and the old town is very pretty.

Colombia

Things we know now that we didn't before we arrived:

• It is not as dangerous as you think.
• At one stage Pablo Escobar was worth more than the government.
• The women are incredibly beautiful and people in general are unusually friendly.
• Genuinely oppressive heat. Cartagena on the Caribbean coast is hot and humid and without an air conditioner almost unbearable.
• Colombians make coffee by filling what is a bit like a sock on a coat-hanger frame with coffee, and pouring boiling water through that. The coffee doesn't sit in the water to brew at all. It makes weaker coffee, but it is really smooth and I think I might prefer it. This is called a "tinto" and is a national drink. If you like it sweet, the water can be boiled with unrefined cane sugar, the name of which I cannot remember, and then this sweet mix is poured through the sock.

Things we'd do differently if we did it again:

• Would do the trek to Ciudad Perdida
• Would visit in Parque Tayrona

Ratings:

• Medellin - UNDERRATED. It's a smart, clean and buzzing city. The smart areas wouldn't be out of place in the First World.
• Cartagena - FAIRLY RATED. It's impressive, but the new town outside the original city walls, was where we felt physically threatened for the only time on this trip and spoils the general mood of the place. 
• Bogotá - UNDERRATED. We felt safe the whole time here and the old town is pretty, clean and well policed.
• Zona cafeteria (Coffee Zone) - UNDERRATED. The scenery is beautiful and the coffee is as good as you can get anywhere.

Peru

Things we know now that we didn't before we arrived:

• The smog in Lima genuinely blocks out the sky!
• The Catholic church has a lot to answer for.
• So do the Spaniards.
• Israelis visit Peru and Bolivia as a rite of passage when finishing their military service.
  • In a group they are inconsiderate, loud, rude, intimidating, unaccommodating, annoying and generally unpleasant to be around.
  • As individuals they are educated, funny, make an effort to speak other languages, well informed and ashamed of what they are like in a group!
  • In both cases, if you are staying at the same hotel or are on the same tour, you can be certain that it is the cheapest available. You can also be certain that whatever you paid is more than they did. Ask them - they know this too and think it's hilarious.

Things we'd do differently if we did it again:

• Not spend as long in Cusco as we did.
• Go to Arequipa and the Colca Canyon
• Avoid Puno and the Uros islands altogether.
• Still wouldn't bother with the Nazca lines. Everyone we met was sick in the light aircraft viewing them and wouldn't do it again!

Ratings:

• Cusco - OVERRATED. Its a pretty city surrounded by Inca ruins, but the locals are there only to separate tourists from their money. Because of its proximity to Machu Picchu, it attracts wealthy North American and European package tourists and the prices of everything here are out of kilter with the rest of the country. It's hard to get an understanding of the people for who they are because they see you first as a source of income and have grown accustomed to the thousands of foreigners they see each year. Because of this, there is nothing you can share with them about your culture, and there's nothing they want to share with you unless it involves them making money. Wouldn't go back.
• Machu Picchu - FAIRLY RATED. It's regarded as a truly awesome sight and is. The effort and cost of getting there (it is impossible to do cheaply and you feel like the entire Peruvian economy relies on it) leave a bad taste and for this reason, we wouldn't go back.
• Choquequirau - UNDERRATED. It's still being restored and is totally unspoiled. They say that when it's fully uncovered, it will be as big as Machu Picchu. Most tour operators don't go there as people don't know about it. On the day we were there, we had the place to ourselves. Glad we saw it before the masses. Wouldn't go back.
• Puno and Peru's side of Lake Titicaca - OVERRATED. Puno is awful and so are the reed islands. You can't even see the magnitude of the lake from here as two peninsulas obstruct the view. Copacobana in Bolivia is close enough for an overnight trip and from here you can see the magnificence of this lake and really get a feel for its size. Wouldn't go back. Ever.

Bolivia

Things we know now that we didn't before we arrived:

• Altitude. Walking up one flight of stairs in La Paz is truly exhausting and makes Peru seem like child's play.
• If you're ever feeling sorry for yourself, know this: there are people living in a place where the altitude negates any form of warm season, they will never lie on a beach, their day is spent selling knickknacks at a stall surrounded by other people doing the same in a manic, dry and windy street.  They leave home before dawn and return after midnight day in and day out. They eat a lunch of potatoes and chicken cooked on the street amid stray dogs, human excrement and general waste and the most they hope for is that tomorrow they can as much as they did today. 
• There are sufficient Israelis in Bolivia to warrant internet cafe keyboards in Hebrew.
• A capybara is like a giant guinea pig on steroids.
• You can buy freshly squeezed orange juice on the street for about 10 US cents. When you've finished your glass, the vendor will top it up with the remains of the squeeze. It feels like you're getting something for nothing.
• The Bolivians make wine.
• Butch Cassidy and the Sundance kid were shot here.

Things we'd do differently if we did it again:

• Not spend as long in La Paz. It's interesting and not bad, just very hectic and at such an altitude staying in budget accommodation really takes its toll. We were there for over a week and probably only needed three days.
• Avoid Oruro.
• Fly into Rurrenabaque. The bus trip is one of life's most miserable experiences.
• Spend the night on Isla del Sol on Titicaca.
• Wouldn't do the bike ride on the Death Road except it ends in Coroico which is like a little piece of heaven and well worth visiting. The bus ride there must be worse than by bike, so would do the ride solely to avoid that. If you can get there another way, I would recommend that.

Ratings:

• The Salar de Uyuni and the desert in South West - UNDERRATED. This is the most spectacular scenery I've ever seen. There is no way of doing it comfortably, but I would do it happily once a year for the rest of my life. Would go back.
• La Paz - UNDERRATED. The stories about La Paz usually involve murdered Austrian tourists, the altitude, bad food or the bizarre jail. We felt safe and found a fantastic restaurant that served first class food (albeit French!) Wouldn't go back.
• Coroico - UNDERRATED. This is off the Gringo Trail, at a pleasant altitude with a comfortable climate. Like so many other places in Bolivia, you have to go through hell to get there though! Would go back.
• Sorata - UNDERRATED. Hardly mentioned in the guide book but peaceful and beautiful. Would go back.

Argentina

Things we know now that we didn't before we arrived:

• What beef should taste like.
• And Chimichurri sauce makes it taste even better.
• Empanadas are like little Cornish pasties, cost nothing and taste the bomb.
• Argentineans have their own, unique, version of Spanish. They say "vos" instead of "tu" for the first person singular, the double L is "zh" instead of "y".
• The people are hospitable beyond what is generally accepted as normal and genuinely interested in tourists. That you might be giving them money somewhere down the line doesn't really seem relevant to any conversation. Even with car hire salesmen and hoteliers. 
• Buenos Aires is like a European city.
• They are serious about wanting the Falklands back.
• There is a significant difference between wine matured in Oak (what they call "Roble") and wine that isn't. Wine that is, is worth paying an extra dollar for.
• The rest of South America despises them.
• They don't care.

Things we'd do differently if we did it again:

• Spend much more time in the north.
• Go to El Chalten. Time didn't permit.
• Spend more time in Bariloche and surrounds. Stay in San Martin de los Andes and camp on one of the lakes.
• Still not sure if the effort to get to Ushuaia is worth it. We're glad we did but would warn anyone planning it to realise that it's miles from anywhere.
• Spend more time staying in cabanas which are smart, modern, cheap and usually in beautiful places away from cities.

Ratings:

• Bariloche - UNDERRATED. This is somewhere we could live. It is unbelievably beautiful, the amenities are of the highest standard in Argentina, the people are relaxed, friendly and happy, it's close to other beautiful places like San Martin de Los Andes and TorXXX? Remote enough to feel like you're in then wild, but cles enough to Patagonia for some mountains, and Buenos Aires and Mendoza for some bigger cities. Can't wait to go back.
• Salta - UNDERRATED. Generally just considered a stop over between Bolivia and Argentina, it's a city small enough to explore fully, but big enough to lose yourself in. There is enough of a night life to feel like it's happening. The climate is probably the best Argentina can get. I doubt it ever gets really cold. Would go back.
• Cafayate - UNDERRATED. A small, high altitude wine region. The wine wasn't as good as Mendoza's, but the town is beautiful and the vinyards are all in walking distance of the main plaza. Would go back.
• Buenos Aires - FAIRLY RATED. It's widely regarded as a buzzing modern city and it doesn't disappoint. Would go back.
• Peninsula Valdez and Punta Tombo - FAIRLY RATED (bordering on OVERRATED). This world heritage site is pushed as one of Argentina's top tourist attractions. Seeing Southern Right Whales close up was exciting and Punta Tombo is overflowing with Magellan Penguins, this is great for photos, but I don't think it's the best Argentina has to offer.  Wouldn't go back.
• The Welsh Heritage towns of Gaiman, Trelew and Rawson - OVERRATED. What little remains of the Welsh influence feels contrived. You can't help feeling that without the Welsh connection, nobody would even be there. Wouldn't go back.
• Iguazu Falls - FAIRLY RATED. We were expecting big things, and even with less water going over than is normal for this time of year, we were impressed. It's worth noting though, that the best view of the falls is from Brazil! Wouldn't go back.
• Mendoza - FAIRLY RATED. It's famous for its wine, has a temperate, comfortable climate. Would go back.
• Tierra del Fuego - FAIRLY RATED. Home to the most southern city on the planet and feels like it. It's very beautiful, especially around Lago Fagnano, but I'm not sure the effort taken to get there is worth it. Wouldn't go back.
• El Calafate and the Perito Moreno glacier - FAIRLY RATED. The town is small but with all the amenities you need. The national park is amazing and the monstrous glacier itself, indescribable. It's cold, windy and wet and a real effort to get to. Wouldn't go back.
• Watching Boca Juniors play at home - UNDERRATED. This is hyped up and you go in expecting big things. No amount of hype could have prepared me for what I saw.

Uruguay

Things we know now that we didn't before we arrived:

• There is still a large population of '50s model cars in use.
• Montevideo is a lot poorer than I thought.
• Punta del Este is one of the premier beaches of the continent.
• The best beach resorts are sparsely populated and further north.
• Contrary to what the Uruguayans will tell you, their meat doesn't beat Argentina's.

Things we'd do differently if we did it again:

• A night less in Montevideo.
• Leave more time to visit the centre of the country.
• Not order a hot dog at that restaurant in Punta del Este but rather go for the local speciality Churasco (?) which is the mother of all steak sandwiches.

Ratings:

• Colonia del Sacramento - FAIRLY RATED. It is a popular day trip from Buenos Aires and worth the effort. Would go back.
• Montevideo - FAIRLY RATED. Not much fuss is made about this smallest of South American capitals and although it's pleasant enough and clean, there's not too much there. Wouldn't go back.
• Punta del Este - FAIRLY RATED. It's an impressive peninsula with beautiful beaches and widely recognised as such. Because of this, it's much more expensive and very touristy. Many people would like it, we just prefer quieter, more out the way places. Wouldn't go back.
• Aguas Dulces - UNDERRATED. Information is hard to come by for travel in Uruguay and little mention is made of this beautiful unspoilt village. There's not much here, but the locals are warm and friendly and happy to talk about anything with anyone. A great place to get away from it all. We had a two bedroomed house on the beach to ourselves for 16USD a night. Would go back.
• Punta del Diablo - UNDERRATED. This place is special. The coast runs for miles and, I think due to the cold current, the area is very dry. The sky is a brilliant blue. There are enough people to make is sociable, but not so many that you feel crowded. The whole time here, you feel like you've been let in on a secret and everyone else is a mug for wanting to go to Punta del Este. Would go back.

Chile

Things we know now that we didn't before we arrived:

• Chile is expensive.
• The wind in Patagonia is dangerously strong.
• Santiago is like a European city. It's underground is smart and modern.
• There is more than one location of Moai on Easter Island, and they don't all look the same.
• The tap water in Chile tastes as good as bottled water, and is easily the best tasting in South America. Probably even world wide!
• The Chileans will give you a handwritten receipt for absolutely everything.
• They toast only one side of the slice.
• In more than one shop or restaurant, there's a system that goes like this:
  • You order with one person
  • That person fills out a type of order form
  • You take that to a teller who rings up an invoice
  • You then pay the invoice
  • That gets stamped as paid
  • You take the stamped invoice back to the person who served you
  • They take the paid invoice and hand you your goods.
  • The audit trail is phenomenal even if it is only to account for a dollar.

Things we'd do differently if we did it again:

• Spend a lot more time in the country. It's a tough call, but we'd seen similar scenery in Bolivia (the desert), Bariloche (the lakes) and Ushuaia (Terra del Fuego) and due to the significant difference in prices (Bolivia and Argentina are much cheaper), we didn't give Chile enough of a chance.
• We are both well aware that it has much more to offer than we saw.

Ratings:

• Torres del Paine - FAIRLY RATED. You expect it to be impressive and it is. The wind though, can be frightening. Wouldn't go back.
• Santiago - UNDERRATED. Much is made of it's smog, but we didn't find that to be a problem. Like Buenos Aires, its a very European city and has some very beautiful gardens. Wouldn't go back.
• Easter Island - FAIRLY RATED. It's one of the most isolated places on earth and very intriguing. It's tiny, though and can be seen in a day. The Moai are impressive and larger than you'd imagine. It's very expensive and not easy to get to. Wouldn't go back.

NOTE:

When I say "wouldn't go back", that doesn't mean we're sorry we went. It is in the sense that we've already been and got what we wanted out of it. We didn't regret going anyway but if there's one place we could have avoided al together, it's Puno. It offers nothing that Copacabana a few hours away doesn't provide with change.